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cheese divide
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CHEESE (as you could've guessed) was the starting motto of these 1,050 km of bike-packing through Italy.
In over 11 days, we cycled 1,050 kilometers and climbed 12,000 meters of elevation, traveling from Riva del Garda (Torbole) to Naples. It was a journey of adaptation, challenge, and unexpected lessons.
Also, this was an adventure of firsts: my longest bike-packing adventure yet.
I was lucky enough to take on this adventure with Sami and Pauilne which joined until Rome.
From Cheeses to Ice Creams
At the start, the plan revolved around indulging in Italy’s renowned cheeses (clearly Parmigiano Reggiano was on top of our list). From the rolling pastures of Lessinia to the vineyards of Chianti, the route combined stunning landscapes and culinary highlights. However, the heat of the Italian summer quickly shifted our cravings, and ice cream shakes became the fuel that kept us going.
We wove our way along historic paths, including parts of the Eroica gravel roads and the ancient Via Francigena, experiencing Italy’s past and present on two wheels. Rome offered a much-needed rest day—filled, of course, with gelato and sightseeing—before we continued south.
The Unexpected Detours
After leaving Rome, Sami discovered a small town called Cori near our planned route. Intrigued, we decided to check it out. The stop was brief—Cori was quieter and less charming than expected—but detours often lead to surprises so we tried.
That evening, as we pushed past sunset for the first time on the trip, the reward was a breathtaking coastal sunset and a hearty dinner in San Felice Circeo. (Fun fact: our accommodation that night doubled as a retirement home.)
The final leg to Naples was a rollercoaster, both literally and figuratively. Scenic coastal roads gave way to chaotic, unpaved stretches filled with unexpected challenges, reminding me of Caracas, the city where I grew up. Fortunately, three local cyclists appeared, guiding us through "safer" paths to reach Naples.










Naples: A City of Contrasts
Arriving in Naples felt like stepping into another world. It was chaotic, hot, and full of life. The essence of the city lay in its contrasts: bustling streets, intense energy, and, of course, incredible pizza. Navigating its streets by bike was an adventure in itself, requiring quick adaptation and an open mind.
Naples pushed me out of my comfort zone, forcing me to see the beauty in its rawness and dynamism. It's a place that challenges your perspective, and for that, I’ll always hold it in a special light.
Reflections and Lessons
Looking back, this trip wasn’t just about the distance or the destinations—it was about learning to embrace change, staying open to the unexpected, and finding joy in the moment, even when things didn’t go as planned. Here are a few key takeaways:
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Change is constant. Embrace it, adapt, and grow with it.
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Choose your travel companions wisely. They can make or break the experience.
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Never underestimate the heat. Plan carefully and listen to your body.
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Always pack insect repellent. Horseflies are no joke.
Overall, this adventure left me feeling energized and inspired, with a head full of new ideas and a heart ready for more.
Hope you've enjoyed the story until here, thank you very much for reading!






FAQ
Best time to do it? - Spring or Autumn, definitely not summer
Do I really need a gravel/mtb? - yes, the route terrain is mixed and there are some harsh gravel sections
Is it doable in more/less days? - yes, it's all on how you want to ride it.
Are there hike-a-bike sections? - yes, very few at the start.
All the pictures on this page were taken by Sami,
best photographer and partner in cheesy crimes!
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